Whether you're planning to eat them or use them as decorations, cacti can add a lot to your home or garden. Although most people associate the word "cactus" with images of solitary, spiny saguaros in vast deserts, the cactus family also contains tropical varieties that can thrive in humid environments. Caring for any type of cacti means paying careful attention to the amount of sun, water, and soil to which it will have access, and making small adjustments to it so as to provide a favorable environment for its growth. Start at Step 1.
Steps
Part 1 of 3: Planting a Cactus from the Seed
Step 1. Take existing cactus seeds or buy commercial seeds
When it comes to getting seeds for your cactus, you have two options: buy seeds from a garden house or take your own from a plant that is already available. Here, you'll essentially choose between price and convenience - store-bought seeds are cheap and prepackaged, while those obtained from the plant itself are pure, although they require a little more work.
- If you are buying seeds, you should have no difficulty finding them for sale. Many gardening and construction houses offer cactus seeds, although online pages can let you browse hundreds of varieties before making a purchase.
- If, on the other hand, you want to get your own seeds, start by finding the pods or fruits in your cactus. Usually these are brightly colored areas on the body of the cactus, with the presence of a flower. When the flower drops, the pod or fruit will be ripe and ready for harvest (assuming it has been pollinated).
Step 2. If you are harvesting seeds from pods, harvest them
Remove the pods or fruits from the cactus before they dry out. The pods must not be completely moist, but they must have some moisture to the touch, internally. The seeds per se, which are inside the pod or fruit, can vary in appearance from cactus to cactus. Some will be discrete black or reddish dots clearly visible to each other, while others may be so small that they appear to be sand or dust.
A good indicator of maturity is the way the pod is expelled from the cactus. "Ripe" pods with ripe seeds should come out with a gentle hand twist, leaving the inner fiber in the cactus
Step 3. Next, harvest the seeds from the pods
Once you've removed the ripe cactus pods, it's time to uproot the seeds themselves. Start by using a sharp knife to cut the pods. Then cut one side to expose the seeds. Finally, remove them carefully by scraping them out of the pods.
Obtaining seeds from tropical varieties of cacti may be different than obtaining them from desert cacti, but the general concept is the same - remove the fruit from the plant and open it to expose the seeds. For example, the seeds of a cactus of the Schlumbergera family, a tropical type, can be harvested by removing the fruit, similar to a blueberry, and squeezing or tearing it to uncover the small black seeds
Step 4. Plant the seeds in a high-draining soil
Whether you've brought in seeds or harvested them from an existing cactus, it's important to plant them in clean, shallow containers containing adequate soil. Moisten the soil deeply before planting, but do not allow water to accumulate. Then spread the seeds across the top of the soil (without burying them). Finally, slowly cover the seeds with a very thin layer of soil or sand. Cactus seeds have only a small amount of stored energy and, if planted too deeply, they will not reach the surface until they are exhausted.
- It is important to use a high-draining soil to plant the cactus, especially if you are dealing with a desert variety. Since desert cacti are not used to receiving large amounts of water in their natural habitat, they can be prone to disease if soil moisture is not well drained. Try using a high quality potted mix with pumice or granite for better drainage.
- If the soil used for planting has not been pasteurized (possibly indicated on the packaging), you can consider heating it in the oven at approximately 150 °C for half an hour. This will kill any pests or pathogens in the soil.
Step 5. Cover the container and expose it to sunlight
Once you have moistened the oil and planted the cactus seeds, cover the container with a clear lid (plastic material, for example) and place it in a place where the seeds will receive a good amount of sun - a sunny window it's a good location. Sunlight should not be intense and constant, but it should be strong for at least a few hours every day. The clear lid will trap moisture in the container as the cactus begins to sprout, still allowing light to reach it.
- Be patient during germination of your cactus. Depending on the species, germination can take from several weeks to several months.
- Tropical cacti are used to the shady environment that exists under the arboreal canopy of the jungle and therefore generally require less sun than desert cacti. Normally, it may be sufficient to grow a tropical cactus in a bright place that does not receive direct sunlight. For example, vases suspended under an awning are an excellent place for tropical cacti.
Step 6. Keep tropical cacti at a constant, warm temperature
Although desert cacti, in their natural environment, are routinely exposed to extreme variations in temperature (from extremely hot during the day to extremely cold at night), tropical cacti prefer a refreshing and consistent warm climate. Therefore, it is a good idea to grow tropical cacti in places where they will not receive direct, intense sunlight during the day or much fruit at night. Try to keep tropical cacti between temperatures of 70°C to 24°C - greenhouses are great for this.
If you don't live in the tropics, you'll probably need to grow your tropical cacti indoors, where temperatures and access to sunlight are much easier to control
Part 2 of 3: Caring for a Cactus
Step 1. When the first thorns appear, allow the plant to breathe
In the weeks following planting your new cactus seeds, the sprouts will begin to germinate. Cacti normally grow very slowly, so this can take a month or more. Eventually, you will be able to see the initial appearance of your cactus spines. When that happens, start giving him more breathing room by removing the clear covering during the day. As the cactus grows, you can leave it uncovered for longer periods of time, until you see it well established and without the need to be covered.
- It is worth noting, however, that this will increase the rate at which water will evaporate from the ground. That means you will have to start watering. Try to do this carefully - don't let the soil dry out completely, but never let it build up water from over-watering.
- Note that many tropical cacti will not have thorns, in which case it is simply necessary to remove the cover once the buds have come out of the ground.
Step 2. Put your potted cactus back once it is well established
As noted earlier, cacti grow very slowly. Depending on the type of cactus you have, it may take 6 months to 1 year for it to grow to the size of a large marble. At this point, it is wise to put it back in a different container. As with most potted plants, keeping a cactus in a container small for its species will make it malnourished, inhibiting its growth and even killing it.
To replace your cactus, use sturdy gloves or a shovel to remove the plant completely, with roots, out of its growing medium. Place it in a new, larger container with the same type of soil; then compact it around the cactus, and water it
Step 3. Allow the cactus to recover from replacement in the shade
As the visible portion of your cactus grows above ground, so do its roots. As it gets bigger and bigger, which can last for years, it may need to be replaced in new containers multiple times. However, since the transplant process can be stressful for plants, it is important to allow your cactus to "recover" after each time the process is resumed. Rather than keeping it in a place that receives a lot of sunlight, try placing it in a shaded or partially shaded area until its roots re-establish. Gradually reintroduce the cactus in the sun for approximately a month.
Step 4. Water infrequently
Established cacti have less vigorous watering requirements than most potted plants. Although they do require some water, their reputation as survivors of harsh desert conditions is well deserved. Most desert cactus varieties need little water once they are fully established. Although individual species may differ in the amount of water required, a good rule of thumb is to allow the soil to dry completely before the next watering. Depending on the temperature, this means waiting a month or more between waterings.
- Remember that cacti are gradual and slow growing. So they don't need a lot of water. Watering more often than necessary can cause problems for the plant, including root problems that can eventually kill the plant.
- Tropical cacti are kind of an exception to this rule, as they are naturally acclimated to wetter environments than desert cacti. Although you can still water a little more tropical cactus species, you need to wait until the soil is dry before each watering in the case of desert ones.
Step 5. Fertilize young plants during the growing months
Although, as noted above, cacti grow slowly, their growth can be supplemented during the spring and summer growing months with a light application of fertilizer or plant feed. Cacti generally require less fertilizer than other plants - try using a dilute liquid fertilizer solution once a month. Mix a small amount of liquid fertilizer with an equal volume of water, then use it to water the cactus as you normally would.
The exact amount of fertilizer needed can vary depending on the species of cactus in question and also on its size. Specific information must be described on the fertilizer label
Part 3 of 3: Solving Common Cacti Problems
Step 1. Avoid rotting due to over-watering
One of the most common problems when it comes to potted plants is fungal rot (also called root rot). This affliction usually occurs when a plant's roots are kept in contact with moisture that does not drain properly, eventually becoming stagnant and stimulating fungal growth. This can happen with most potted plants, but desert cacti are especially susceptible as they naturally require only a small amount of water compared to other plants. The best cure for decay is prevention: simply avoid overwatering in the first place. As a general rule of thumb, it's better to water less than necessary than otherwise when it comes to cacti. You can also use a good quality potting soil with a high level of drainage for all cacti.
If your plant is rotten, it may look swollen, mushy, brown or sagging, with the possibility of cracks on its surface. Often, but not always, this condition moves from the base of the plant to its top. You can try removing the cactus from its pot, cutting out any blackened and slimy roots and dead tissue on the soil, replanting it in a new container with clean soil. However, if the damage to the roots is extensive, it can die in the same way. In many cases, it is necessary to discard rotting plants to prevent the fungus from spreading to other adjacent plants
Step 2. Gradually increase your exposure to sunlight to prevent dwindling
Etiolation is a problem in which the plant grows pale and unhealthy due to insufficient sun exposure. Cactuses with etiolated growth will often have a fine, feeble quality, with a pale and pale green coloration. The etiolated portion of the plant will grow towards a nearby light source, if present. Although stagnation is permanent in the sense that any unhealthy growth that has already occurred is irreversible, future stagnation can be curbed by ensuring that the plant receives sufficient sunlight.
However, you should not place an etiolated growing cactus in bright sunlight right away. Instead, gradually increase the amount of sunlight you receive each day, until you notice your growth is normalized. Exposing any plant to drastically intensified sunlight can be stressful, while doing so with etiolated cacti can be fatal
Step 3. Avoid phototoxicity by limiting sun exposure after using pesticides
If you've ever noticed burns on your body after spending a lot of time in the water, it's possible that you actually felt something close to phototoxicity, an affliction that can affect plants as well. After applying an oily pesticide to a plant, the pesticide oil will remain on the surface, acting as a kind of "tanner", increasing the intensity of the sun's rays. This can cause parts of the plant where the oil is present to become burnt, gray and dry. To avoid this, place the cactus in a shaded place for a few days until the oily pesticide has finished its work, before returning it to sunlight.
Step 4. Don't be afraid of natural bulking
One aspect of the cacti's life cycle that many people are unfamiliar with is its base bulging, in which the mature portions at its base slowly begin to develop into a hard, brownish exterior, similar to tree bark. While this may sound serious given the fact that natural green is being replaced by an almost unhealthy appearance, this is not really a sign of any danger and can generally be ignored.
Bulbage naturally starts at the base of the plant, and can ascend slowly. If it starts elsewhere on the plant, this could be a sign of a problem. For example, if the top of the cactus and the sunlight-facing side look like this but not its base, this could be a sign that the cactus is getting too much sunlight and is not a result of natural bulking
Tips
- If you want to grow a lot of cacti, you can do it in a single container, evenly spaced between them. When each is the size of a small marble, transplant them into their own recipients.
- Use the same soil mixture in each of the pots in which the cacti will be replanted.
Notices
- Wear thick gloves before handling cacti that already have thorns.
- Be aware of the presence of parasites in your cacti, especially mealy scale insects, which often appear as white pellets on the green surface. Pick them up with a stick or tool and use a pesticide to remove any insects in hard-to-reach places.
- Use a pesticide such as malathion to kill scale insects or other parasites, which can appear as brownish pellets on the surface of the cactus.
