It's hard not to love a golden retriever puppy, except, of course, when he's peeing on the floor at home or eating someone's shoe. Training a golden retriever in childhood will help you form a bond with the animal, keep it second (and your belongings too!) and make both of you happier. There are a few things all owners want to teach you – how to pee in a specific place and obey when you're on the street, plus some basic commands like "sit" and "come". Despite this, there are dozens of other behaviors that can be taught to a puppy using the same method.
Method 1 of 6: Learning the Basic Training Method
Step 1. Know the basic method
There are many different ways to train dogs, but the most effective ones come down to three things: reward desired behaviors, don't reward unwanted behaviors, and be consistent.
- Reward desired behaviors: this is the easy and fun part. The rewards are not just for when you are training your dog. If your puppy urinates outside, praise him. If he greets another dog in a friendly way, let him know that he is a good boy.
- Don't reward unwanted behavior: it is necessary to be a little more vigilant. If the dog is doing something you don't like, consider his motives: this usually occurs when he is wrongly rewarded. You need to consistently remove this reward. For example, if the dog jumps on you excitedly when he sees the collar, you should not put it on him and take him for a walk, as this rewards this behavior. Instead, turn away or look at the sky until it calms down. Put the collar on and take him for a walk next.
- Consistency: Everyone in the household must respond in the same way to the dog's behavior. If you don't offer him food from the table, but your kids do, you're in big trouble. If you sometimes ask the dog to stop jumping when you greet him and at other times you respond enthusiastically to him, you are sending the animal confusing messages.
Step 2. Choose the reward
Whenever you're training a specific behavior, you'll need a reward in hand. Choose something golden retrievers love; the better the reward, the easier it will be to teach something. If your puppy loves to play, you can try using his favorite toy, however, most people believe that using treats is the most effective way to teach a dog something. The best snacks are the dog's favorites, the ones that are easy to share and the healthy ones. Use a variety of snacks to avoid boring the animal. Good options include: Try it out:
- Cheese sticks.
- Cooked chicken.
- Meat dumplings or "bifinhos" (found in pet shops).
- Divided dog biscuits or training snacks.
- Frozen carrots or peas (for diet dogs).
Step 3. Consider training with a clicker
In this type of training, you use a sound (the "click" emitted by the clicker) to inform the dog that he has done something right. This sound is very effective as it is consistent, unique and different from the human voice. However, you can also say "good" or "yes" as signs if you don't have a clicker.
Take the clicker and place a treat in your hand. If the dog tries to catch you, close your hand. Click and offer the treat to the animal. Repeat a few minutes later. Repeat until the dog comes immediately after the click and waits for a treat
Step 4. Train one skill at a time and keep sessions short, simple and rewarding
Effective training should be fun for you and your dog. To get the most out of it, follow these practices:
- Be brief. Workouts should last no longer than 15 minutes. Be even briefer with puppies.
- Train the skills in parts. For example, if you are teaching a dog to sit and stand, start by teaching him to sit. Reward him whenever he does this, add a command to the action, and practice the repetition. Then teach the dog to remain seated while you leave. Later, take the training session to a more distracting environment, such as a park. Break up the training like this to make it more effective.
- Use simple words, not sentences. The commands need to be simple and consistent: "Sit down" instead of "Sit down, Fido", "Sit down" or "Sit down, please." The more words you use, the more confused the dog will be.
- Don't go too fast or take too long. If the dog is struggling with some part of the training, go back to a part he has already learned. Keep the experience positive and don't end up with a failure. Stop before the dog gets bored or frustrated.
- Practice in real life. Do not train the animal only during training sessions. Practice the "sit" and "stay" commands on your rides. Make training part of the animal's life.
- Be patient! Training a dog takes time. In fact, this is a never-ending process, but it's worth it. A well-trained dog is happy and healthy.
Step 5. Decide what you want to teach the dog
All owners want their puppies to learn not to pee at home as soon as possible, and most want to train them to obey when they are out walking. Basic obedience training – sit, stay, come, lie down and roll – is also vital. The other tricks, skills and desired behaviors will depend on the tastes of each owner and dog.
- Golden retrievers love to pick things up and this is great exercise, so teach your puppy to do this. A good option is to teach the animal to play tug of war or to fetch a Frisbee.
- Tricks like "talk" or "play here" are fun but not necessary.
- If you travel frequently with your pet, remember to train your pet to use transport crates and cages.
- Depending on the animal's temperament, it may be necessary to train it not to beg for things, not to jump on you when you get home, and not to show aggression against other dogs (although this is not a common problem with golden retrievers).
Method 2 of 6: Training the Puppy to be Obedient
Step 1. Decide what you will teach the puppy
Obedience training consists of teaching the dog to do things like responses to verbal commands or signals. Basic commands such as "sit", "come", "leave" and "stay" are important to control the dog and ensure its safety, but there are many others you can teach, such as "roll", "jump" or "talk ". Most of these skills are taught with the same basic reward methods - capture or bait method - that will be demonstrated below with the "sit" command.
Step 2. Use the bait method to teach the dog to sit
Divide the workout described below into several short sessions spaced over several days.
- Lower your arm toward the dog with a treat in your hand for the dog to sniff it. Raise your hand up behind the dog's head. As his gaze follows you, he will automatically sit up. Once you've done that, say "yes" - or use the clicker - and deliver the treat. Do this until the dog sits down whenever he sees the bait.
- Try the same thing without the treat in hand. Reach out, say "Sit down!" and return the arm to the starting position. Deliver the treat as soon as the dog sits down.
- When the puppy sits down without you offering a treat in advance, step back and repeat the arm movement as you say "Sit down!"
- Finally, say "Sit down!" without performing the arm movement. Reward the dog when he obeys.
Step 3. Use the capture method
Get some snacks. Ignore the dog, but keep an eye on him. As soon as he sits down, say "Sit down!" quickly and throw a snack. He will probably try everything to get another treat. Wait for him to sit down again, say "Sit down!" quickly and throw a snack. The dog will soon associate sitting with the word "sit" and treats.
Method 3 of 6: Training the Puppy to Pee
Step 1. Know when to train your golden retriever puppy to pee
Start training him as soon as you bring him home. After the trip, take the puppy to the chosen point for him to pee – in the garden at home or on the street – and let him sniff the environment. If he makes needs on the spot, reward him. Take him regularly to the chosen spot (every 20 minutes if possible) and praise him whenever he needs it there.
- The puppy is more likely to use the toilet immediately after eating or 20 minutes after meals. Take him to the chosen spot to increase the likelihood that he will need to be done on the spot.
- At this stage in a puppy's life, rewarding "coincidences" is very important. Don't worry if he doesn't understand what to do at first, but never punish him for relieving himself outside the desired location.
Step 2. Be positive and consistent
Punishing the dog for urinating or defecating indoors will only frighten him and make learning difficult. Consistency is the best way to train you.
Step 3. Feed the puppy at regular times
Remove food between meals to regulate the times he needs to be needed.
Step 4. Take the puppy for a walk at regular times
Having a consistent schedule is the best way to avoid accidents. Very young puppies should be taken to the "need area" every hour or after meals and naps. All puppies should be taken for a walk as soon as they wake up, before bedtime and before being left alone at home.
- Puppies can usually hold their pee for a number of hours equivalent to their age in months.
- Puppies can hold their pee longer at night. A four-month-old golden retriever should be able to get through the night without urinating.
Step 5. Keep an eye on the puppy to prevent accidents
You don't want him to get used to urinating around the house, so keep an eye on him whenever he's around. Whimpering, walking in circles, sniffing and leaving the environment are signs that the animal needs to relieve itself. Get him out as soon as possible.
Step 6. Secure the puppy when you cannot observe him
Use a cage or a small room with the door closed or blocked by a baby gate. As he grows, you can gradually increase the size of the area until you let him use several rooms in the house. It's a good idea to introduce a new space right after it has cleaned up.
Step 7. Reward the puppy when he urinates or defecates in the desired location
During training, you should always accompany him to the garden or the place where you want him to do his needs. Always take it to the same place so that the odor encourages you to relieve yourself. Reward him with praise, treats or jokes.
Step 8. Keep calm when picking up the puppy in the middle of a glide
Never scare him let alone rub his muzzle in his urine. Clap your hands to alert him; this usually causes him to stop urinating. Run quickly to the chosen point and encourage him to follow you. If he finishes needing in the desired location, reward him. If he's already finished, don't stress.
Method 4 of 6: Training the puppy to obey you while on a leash
Step 1. Decide how trained you need the dog to be
Teaching him to walk with you without pulling on a leash or chasing a cat takes discipline, consistency, and a good amount of time, but it's entirely possible. On the other hand, you may not care if the dog walks in front of you, as long as he doesn't pull the lead too hard. In this case, an anti-pull collar or halter collar should work without the need for any training. Knowing what you want – and agreeing with everyone who walks the dog – is the key.
Step 2. Buy the correct equipment
Ideally, look for a 2 meter fixed length guide. Extensible or long guides will make training difficult. Use an ordinary collar, a halter collar or an anti-pull collar.
- Not use a choke chain unless you are accompanied by a professional trainer.
- Not wear a tight or forced collar unless you are accompanied by a professional trainer.
Step 3. Make all tours part of the training
Consistency is important, so until the dog is able to walk without pulling it – no matter who is accompanying it – turn all walks into training. Be brief and fun, as walking a lot with an untrained dog will frustrate both of you.
Step 4. Exercise the dog before training
This is important for two reasons: 1) until the puppy is trained, walks will be too short to exercise him fully; 2) very energetic dogs are more likely to pull on the lead. Play chasing or tug-of-war, or let him play with other animals in a park before training with the guide.
Step 5. Have snacks on hand
You will need a lot of them to train the animal. For hiking, the best options are cheeses, cooked sausages, meat or chicken, as these foods can be eaten quickly while the animal is walking.
Step 6. Walk quickly
Moving faster makes it more interesting for the dog, and he's likely to pull less on the lead if he's walking fast. It will be easier to teach him not to pull if you follow him at his pace.
Step 7. Choose the method
There are four main methods for teaching your dog not to pull on the lead. Some work better with some dogs than others. If you choose a method that shows no progress after a few weeks, choose another.
- stop and go: when the dog fully extends the lead, stop. Wait until he leaves a break, ask him to come to you and sit down. When he does, say "Yes" and deliver a treat. Do it ever have the dog fully stretch the lead. Reward the animal whenever it looks at you or walks near you. The idea is to associate walking close to you with rewards and pulling with stopping walking. If he pulls the tab to sniff something, stop, but instead of delivering a treat, let him explore the smell of the place as a reward.
- 'bait and reward: fill your hands with treats, hold it in front of the puppy's muzzle, say "Let's go for a walk!" and start walking. Deliver snacks regularly. If the puppy pulls the lead, stop and call him back. Reward him then. Don't go too far – these walks require a lot of snacks and you have to bend down often. After a week, stop getting the dog's attention with treats. Say "Let's go for a walk!" and walk with your hand in the natural position. Deliver a treat at each step. On the following walks, gradually increase the number of steps between snacks: 2, 5, 10, 20. Eventually, you should be able to walk with only occasional snacks.
- change of direction: This option is good for dogs that don't learn with the first two methods. When the dog is nearing the end of the lead, say "Calm down!" If he goes slow, say "Yes!" and reward him with a treat. If he keeps going until the lead is fully extended, turn his head abruptly in the other direction, pulling him with the lead. Praise him as he hurries to keep up, and when he catches up, turn and continue walking in the original direction. Do this whenever the animal pulls the lead. When he's walking next to you, reward him with snacks regularly.
- This method should work quickly. If the pulls do not subside after several sessions, stop.
- Do not use this method with a halter or tight collar as this may injure the animal.
- Correction with the collar: This option is necessary for dogs that don't learn with the first two methods. Whenever the animal is reaching the end of the guide, say "Calm down!" If he goes slow, say "Yes!" and reward him with a treat. If it keeps going until the guide is fully stretched, pull it out abruptly. It may take several tugs for the dog to slow down. Reward him whenever he walks close to you or has a slack on his leash.
- Pulling too hard can hurt the dog, be careful.
- This method should reduce the pulls in a few days. Otherwise, stop and try another method.
Method 5 of 6: Training the Puppy to Get Stuck
Step 1. Use a crate or cage to keep the puppy and its possessions safe at home or when transporting
There are several reasons to train a puppy to get stuck. Use a cage:
- To keep the puppy safe when you can't watch him.
- To keep your belongings safe when you can't watch the puppy.
- When the puppy is home alone.
- As a place for the puppy to calm down.
- When traveling.
- To keep the puppy away from children and other puppies.
- To help train the puppy's behavior.
Step 2. Know what not to use a cage for
Never use it to punish the animal. Once he's grown up and trusted, don't leave him stranded when you leave the house. Leave the cage for special times – such as receiving guests – and for transport. Most of the time, the dog must enter the cage voluntarily.
Step 3. Choose a cage
Which type you choose depends on your preference, but many people claim that wire models are more durable and comfortable solutions for dogs (in addition to being used in most "hotels" for dogs). The most important thing is to find a cage of the correct size. If it is too small, the animal will not be comfortable. If it's too big, the animal will think it's home.
- To save money, buy a cage to use when the animal is an adult and use a separator to make it the right size for the puppy.
- The dog should be able to stand upright in the cage without hitting its head, turn comfortably and lie on its side with its paws straight.
- For an ordinary golden adult, a 1 m cage should suffice. Buy a spacer to save space if the cage is going to be used by a puppy.
Step 4. Make the cage safe and comfortable
The dog must like to be inside it. It must be such a comfortable place to rest that he wanted to spend time there. Ensure that:
- The cage is placed in a room where you spend a lot of time so the puppy doesn't feel abandoned.
- Keep the cage at a comfortable temperature: away from direct sunlight and heaters.
- A soft pad is installed inside the cage.
- Toys are placed in the cage so the dog has something to do.
- A wire cage is either covered with a towel or a specific cover. This will create a more suitable environment for the animal.
Step 5. Teach the dog to associate the cage with good experiences
Before training him, you must teach him that this is a magical place that produces things he loves. If you do it right, training will be very easy!
- Set up the cage without the dog seeing it, open the door and put some snacks in the door and in the bottom of it. Also add some toys.
- Let the dog explore the cage on its own. Don't draw his attention to her. Don't say anything if he comes in, let him explore it in his own time.
- Place new snacks every hour, without the animal seeing. Soon, it will go in on its own to see if new snacks have emerged (remember to subtract the snacks from the pet's daily diet so you don't overfeed him).
- Also start feeding the dog in the cage. In the beginning, place the food bowl inside so that he needs to stick his head inside the cage to feed. After two or three meals, move the bowl farther in and then to the bottom of the cage.
Step 6. Train the dog to enter the cage for treats
Show a treat and throw it into the cage. As the dog enters to feed, use the command you want, like "Cage!", for example. When he does, praise him and give him another treat. Stand back and wait for the dog to leave the cage. As it does, use an exit command such as "Out!". Praise the animal, but don't give it a treat. The idea is that snacks are associated with the "magic cage".
- Do this ten times, stop for a few minutes and repeat ten more times. Always use verbal commands.
- Repeat the entire ritual several times a day until the dog enters the cage to fetch willing treats. This part of training shouldn't take long.
Step 7. Teach the dog to enter the cage by following commands
After tossing snacks once or twice to warm it up, use the verbal command without snack. As the dog enters, praise him deeply and deliver a treat. Praise him again when he leaves.
- Do this ten times, stop for a few minutes and repeat ten more times.
- Repeat the training several times for two or three days, until the animal enters and leaves the cage following the commands.
- If the puppy has difficulty with this step, go back to the previous one.
Step 8. Close the door
Ask the puppy to enter the cage and sit down. Slowly close the door. If it is necessary to close it running before the dog escapes, it is not yet ready for this step. When the door closes, praise the dog and give him treats. Then open the door and let him out.
- Practice in sets of ten reps, take a break and repeat another set of ten.
- Gradually increase the amount of time the animal must sit in the cage before releasing it. Do training sessions where he has to wait ten seconds, 30 seconds, 45 seconds and one minute.
Step 9. Stand back further
When the dog has been sitting comfortably in the cage for one minute, begin moving away from the cage.
- In the first session, move away just a few meters before returning. Go in different directions and keep looking at the dog.
- Then try moving around the room without paying much attention to the puppy.
- Add moments where you leave the environment briefly and return.
- Finally, leave the environment.
Step 10. Leave the room
At first, stay outside for only five minutes. Increase the amount of time you spend outside gradually to 30 minutes.
- If the dog becomes anxious while you are away, go back and release him. Return to the previous step or reduce the time you spend away from the animal.
- Always remove the collar and leash before placing the dog in the cage, as these objects can suffocate the dog if they get caught in the wire.
Step 11. Place the dog in the cage when outside
Once he's been able to stay comfortably in the cage for 30 minutes, it's time to leave him in it when you leave the house. When he is a puppy, trips will need to be shorter, as a puppy will hardly be able to hold his urine for more than three hours. Even an adult dog should not spend more than four hours a day in the cage. The animal needs to be able to get out and stretch its legs.
- Exercise the dog and deliver a treat or toy before leaving.
- Vary the time you put the animal in the cage. Sometimes arrest it ten minutes before you leave. Others, five minutes before or just before leaving. This will help prevent the animal from associating the cage with abandonment.
- Don't make the output seem more important than necessary. Praise the dog for entering the cage and leaving.
Step 12. Put the dog to sleep in the cage
Now that he's used to the new environment, he can sleep in it, but make sure you can hear him, as puppies usually need to urinate in the middle of the night.
Step 13. Be patient
All dogs are unique when it comes to training. Some can be trained in a week or less, but those who are shy or who have had bad experiences may need a few weeks. Do not put too much pressure on the animal and make sure it is comfortable with each step before proceeding.
Method 6 of 6: Training the Puppy to Fetch Things
Step 1. Start with good habits
Golden retrievers love to search for things and this is a great way to exercise them. You probably won't need help getting a dog to chase a ball or toy, but instill good habits early so that he learns to bring the toy back and release it next to you.
Step 2. Use two toys to teach the dog to fetch and fetch
Throw one toy, and when the animal catches it, throw the other in the opposite direction. While he's chasing the second, get the first.
- Do this until he is used to searching and running to you.
- Eventually you can call the dog without showing the second toy. If he comes, say "Let go!" and show the second toy.
- When the dog lets go of the toy when he hears a command, eliminate the second toy.
Step 3. Attach a thread to the toy if using two does not work
Whenever the dog catches you, pull the line and encourage him to follow the toy.
- If he follows you, give him a treat.
- If the dog runs to the other side, pull it with the cut. Praise him and reward him when he approaches.
- Don't always throw the toy right away. Let the dog play with him for a while. The idea is not to make him think he will lose the toy whenever he brings it to you.
- After a few weeks the dog should stop trying to escape with the toy.
Step 4. Use treats to make him drop the toy
Say "Let go!" and put a treat in front of his muzzle. That should make even the most stubborn dog drop the toy.
- If the dog doesn't let go of the toy, try an even more irresistible treat, such as a steak or a piece of cheese.
- In the future you won't need the treat, but give one every now and then.
Step 5. Step away to teach the dog to drop the toy next to you
Just before he lets go, step back and say "Bring it!" When he reaches where you were, say "Let go!" and step forward to pick up the toy. It may take a few weeks for the dog to learn to bring the toy back to you.
Step 6. Use the commands "sit" and "stay" to prevent the dog from picking up the toy when you pick it up
Have him sit and stay still after releasing the toy. If he tries to catch you when you bend down, say "No!" immediately and stand up. Eventually, he'll realize that if he wants to keep playing, he'll need to be quiet while you pick up the toy.