3 Ways to Skate

Building a skateboard, oddly enough, is not as difficult as most people tend to think. Making the shape, the wooden plank, requires only a basic knowledge of carpentry, a saw, a mold and a vacuum press, but it is still possible to make it at home, with a little patience. Although professional shapes are really difficult to design without specialized equipment, anyone can build a basic model and start using it within a day or two of work.

Steps

Method 1 of 3: Forming and Pressing Wood

Step 1. Understand that skateboards are made with six to nine layers of plywood

To withstand stress and damage, it is important that the shape is not built with just a wooden board. Instead, multiple thin layers of plywood and varnish are joined, glued and pressed for several hours to prepare a single shape. The industry standard is in the seven-tier range, although there are models containing nine.

• Changing the thickness or amount of layers present on the shape will affect the skateboard's weight, flexibility, and ride properties.
• Most hats have a final thickness of approximately 10 mm{displaystyle 10 {text{mm}}}

Step 2. Buy six to seven layers of plywood

Each must be 75×25 cm{displaystyle 75\times 25 {text{cm}}}

de tamanho e 1, 5 mm{displaystyle 1, 5 {text{mm}}}

Step 3. Join the layers with evenly applied wood glue

Take each piece and roll a thin layer of wood glue under the base of one and over the top of the other with a paint roller. Carefully press them together. Repeat this procedure to join all seven plywood layers together. It is not enough to just cover one side and glue it to the other - it is necessary to spread it evenly on both sides of the wood.

• If you intend to make a professional shape, you must order the wood in the correct direction for best results. The meaning will be:
  • Face layer (the best wood);
  • Center layer;
  • Cross layer;
  • Center layer;
  • Cross layer;
  • Center layer;
  • Face layer.

Step 4. Place the shape in the mold and join the layers tightly

Use masking tape to lightly glue the shape to a Styrofoam mold. If you are using a professional press, simply place it in place and move on to the next step.

• Two pieces of tape covering the entire width of the shape, before the start of the upward curve, will suffice.
• If you don't have a Styrofoam mold, fit the wood between two old shapes to mimic the shape. However, it is worth remembering that both must be identical in shape.

Step 5. Seal the wood and mold in a vacuum bag

Place a piece of cloth under the air pump to make it come out easily during suction. If the valve is in the same position as the wood, it may not be possible to remove the air completely as it will block its passage through the orifice.

This bag must be perfectly vacuum-sealed, or the shape will not take on the desired shape

Step 6. Remove as much air as possible with a vacuum cleaner

Ask a friend to help prevent the bag from being accidentally sucked through the layers of wood or by the mold, which will bend the shape. Think of the vacuum cleaner as if you were dealing with a press - the top of the bag adjusts the wood to the Styrofoam mold and anything along it will result in slants or grooves in the material.

Step 7. Leave the shape pressed for eight hours before removing it

Keep it in the mold throughout the day. Check it every two to three hours to make sure the bag is still sealed, but be prepared to suck in more air when needed.

Step 8. Carefully remove the wood

This step is usually the one in which many people tear the vacuum bag, making it unusable for future shapes. Just try to open it to let air in and slowly pull the mold away from the bag.

Step 9. Trace the shape of an old board into the chipboard

This will be your guide for cutting the shape into the proper shape. If you can't use something old at your disposal, take a large piece of paper and fold it in half. Draw the shape of one half of the shape-curved at the top and bottom, but straight along the sides-starting from the folded edge. Next, cut out the outline - since the paper is folded in half, unfolding it will result in a perfectly symmetrical outline. Trace this design into the wood.

The tail, the back of the shape, is usually slightly narrower than the nose, the front

Step 10. Use a saw to cut the shape into the desired shape

Cut along the outline to create your basic template. If you have a band saw, it can make getting a cleaner cut easier.

Step 11. Sand the entire edge of the shape with a belt sander, making it curve slightly downwards

The edge should curve towards the wheels, usually no more than 4∼5 mm{displaystyle 4\yes 5 {text{mm}}}

. Para isso, trabalhe com o topo do shape voltado para cima e incline a borda para baixo à medida em que a passa pela lixadeira.

Complemente o resultado com uma lixa de mão e finalize com um papel-lixa de grão fino para suavizar as bordas. Além disso, use grãos de numeração cada vez maior para conseguir um produto final mais belo e com superfície mais lisa

Step 12. Paint, stain or design the surface as you prefer

Now that the shape is finished, it's time to make it your own. After you've sanded the surface, you can add some stain, paint images or use a blowtorch to create that extraordinary, personalized look you want.

Method 2 of 3: Building a Skateboard Mold

Step 1. Build a Styrofoam mold to mold the shape in a vacuum press

Unless you want a flat model, it is necessary to press the layers of wood into a specialized mold in order to curve it professionally. For this, you need a large piece of Styrofoam (at least the size of plywood), a vacuum cleaner with a tube connector, and a vacuum bag large enough to hold the mold and shape.

• You will probably have to stack and glue several Styrofoam pieces until you get to 10∼13 cm{displaystyle 10\yes 13 {text{cm}}}

  de espessura.

• O isopor deve ter um valor R de 9{displaystyle 9}

ou superior a fim de suportar a pressão necessária na confecção do shape.

• É possível comprar isopor na maioria das lojas de construção, na seção de isolamento térmico.

Step 2. Cut a piece of paper the size of the thickness of the Styrofoam

You'll have to make an outline of the shape, and once you get the shape you want, you'll be able to use it as a base so that both sides are cut identically.

Step 3. Cut the outline paper into the desired shape shape

Most shapes curve up to 5∼10 cm{displaystyle 5\sim 10 {text{cm}}}

de cada lado, mantendo-se planos ou côncavos no meio. Mantenha-o simples por agora - use uma régua para visualizar uma linha reta que cruze a parte central e faça a curva gentilmente para cima nos últimos 7, 5∼10 cm{displaystyle 7, 5\sim 10 {text{cm}}}

de modo que as extremidades do shape estejam 1∼2, 5 cm{displaystyle 1\sim 2, 5 {text{cm}}}

mais altas que o meio.

• Esse é o formato de perfil do shape, não o do topo.
• Pegue o shape de um skate velho e baseie-se em seu contorno para um resultado profissional.

Step 4. Pass the outline to the Styrofoam

Make this line on both sides. The flat base should be on top of the block. With a ruler, draw a line connecting the points where the shape curves across the top of the Styrofoam. In the end, you will have an outline on both sides and two horizontal lines on the shape.

Step 5. Cut the Styrofoam to conform it to the outline

When finished, it will look like a flat-topped mound, curving sideways. For that:

• Measure the distance from the outline to the top of the Styrofoam block at five locations. Mark the measurement points and the height determined at each of them. Suppose, for example, that the first mark, made at the beginning of the curve, is at 1, 3 cm{displaystyle 1, 3 {text{cm}}}

  de distância entre o bloco e o contorno.

• Desenhe, com o auxílio de uma régua, uma linha que vai da marca de 1, 3 cm{displaystyle 1, 3 {text{cm}}}

de um lado do bloco até a mesma marca do outro lado.

• Prepare a lâmina do estilete para trabalhar nessa distância com exatidão, mantendo-a com apenas 1, 3 cm{displaystyle 1, 3 {text{cm}}}

de comprimento.

• Corte horizontalmente ao longo da linha feita, fazendo uma incisão de 1, 3 cm{displaystyle 1, 3 {text{cm}}}

no isopor.

• Corte o isopor diagonalmente a fim de tirar um pedaço longo e retangular de 1, 3 cm{displaystyle 1, 3 {text{cm}}}

em ambas as laterais.

• Repita o procedimento até ter toda a curva do shape bem contornada.

Step 6. Sand the surface to achieve a simple, smooth curve

Use 100 grit sandpaper{displaystyle 100}

para eliminar as regiões mais ásperas. A lixa tira rapidamente os resíduos de isopor e permite a você garantir que o encaixe seja perfeito com relação ao que foi desenhado na lateral. O contorno, agora, envolverá toda a parte superior de seu molde.

O produto final se parece com o inverso de um shape no qual é possível encaixá-lo perfeitamente

Step 7. Experiment with different designs

The biggest advantage of styrofoam molds is that they are easy to customize and inexpensive to make, and it can be useful to experiment with different models once you get used to the job.

Step 8. Use an old board to drill the bolt spaces for each shaft

Trucks, or axles, are the large pieces of metal that keep the wheels in place. Simply place an old shape over the new one and use a pencil to mark the location of each hole. Use a straight drill and cut through the board to its full depth. Finally, you will have eight holes - two sets of four at each end.

• If it is not possible to use an old shape, it is necessary to make sure that the holes are centered. To do this, use a ruler and measure at least five center points on the shape. If it is 25 cm{displaystyle 25 {text{cm}}}

  de largura, esses pontos centrais estarão a aproximadamente 13 cm{displaystyle 13 {text{cm}}}

  de cada borda. Use a régua para interligar a todos eles e desenhe a linha central. A partir daí, alinhe os eixos de modo que os furos estejam equidistantes à linha, marque-os e faça os furos necessários.

  Os eixos devem ficar na parte plana do shape, então comece os furos logo depois que as curvas de cada ponta se terminarem

Método 3 de 3: Fazendo um shape personalizado

Step 1. Know the basic components of a skateboard

Despite the many innovations that have emerged in recent decades, skateboards are simple machines that can be customized with few parts.

• shape: this is the wooden plank. There is a rough surface at the top that looks like sandpaper.
• trucks: Large pieces of metal that act as the axle of the wheels.
• bearings: Allows the wheels to turn smoothly and can come in steel or ceramic - although steel is the most common material, ceramic offers less friction and lasts longer, despite also having a higher cost. Eight units are required.
• Wheels: there is a wide variety at your disposal, each one aimed at different types of shapes and uses.
• Materials: a set of 16{displaystyle 16}

  parafusos especializados para a montagem do skate. O preço do pacote não costuma ser muito elevado.

Step 2. Choose a shape template

What kind of skateboard do you intend to own? Longboards are used in rides and descents, while street are the "classics" so present in jumps, handrails and urban routes.

• Width: the wider the shape, the smoother the movement, the more difficult it will be to perform maneuvers. The default is between 7, 5′′{displaystyle 7, 5^{prime \prime }}

  e 8, 5′′{displaystyle 8, 5^{prime \prime }}

  (19∼22 cm{displaystyle 19\sim 22 {text{cm}}}

  ).

• Concavidade: geralmente, se o shape estiver mais encurvado para baixo (côncavo), ele será mais estável de andar. Modelos mais planos são geralmente mais fáceis para as manobras, mas é importante experimentar alguns diferentes para determinar do que você gosta.
• Wheelbase: essa é a distância presente entre os dois pares de rodas. Quanto maior for essa medida, mais amplo será o seu raio de giro. Geralmente, pessoas mais altas gostam mais de um valor maior. Ele costuma variar entre 33{displaystyle 33}

e 38 cm{displaystyle 38 {text{cm}}}

Step 3. Glue the sandpaper to the skateboard.

Just remove the adhesive layer and stick the sandpaper on the surface, pressing it firmly for better adhesion to the wood. Run a screwdriver or metal object along the edge until the adhesive leaves a white mark along the entire length. Use a utility knife or knife to cut off excess duct tape.

• If there are still air bubbles present, pierce them with the tip of the stylus and press the adhesive tape over the shape.
• It is much easier to cut the sandpaper from the base.

Step 4. Choose the trucks

These are the metal parts that connect the shape to the axle and wheels, and are generally the most durable parts in the entire set. Despite appearing standardized, different trucks are usually intended for different professionals:

• Longboard users who plan to use large wheels may need lifts, which create a greater distance between the board and the ground. In addition, they can absorb some of the force and vibration from each landing.
• Those who ride more intensely may need a wider hanger, the axle that makes the wheels even further apart. Most products on the market can make them reach 6mm{displaystyle 6\{text{mm}}}

  para dentro da borda externa do shape.

• Os amortecedores, ou bushings, controlam o nível de instabilidade que o shape proporciona. Profissionais mais técnicos optarão por modelos mais duros, enquanto usuários mais casuais talvez prefiram amortecedores mais macios.

Step 5. Choose the right wheels for your skateboard.

There are many different types available, and you should talk to professionals at a local store to find out which models work best for you. That said, standard wheels will have the same general properties regardless of manufacturer:

• A good set for beginners is between 52{displaystyle 52}

  e 55 mm{displaystyle 55 {text{mm}}}

  , com dureza 99a{displaystyle 99{text{a}}}

  - bem balanceados para a maioria dos terrenos.

• aqueles que gostam de fazer muitas manobras geralmente irão preferir rodas menores e mais duras, como as de 50 mm{displaystyle 50 {text{mm}}}

com dureza 101a{displaystyle 101{text{a}}}

• para um uso mais casual, de passeio, rodas maiores e mais macias são preferíveis, como as de 70 mm{displaystyle 70 {text{mm}}}

com dureza 78b{displaystyle 78{text{b}}}

dicas

• seja criativo na pintura - se não gostar do resultado, você pode lixar o skate e pintá-lo novamente.
• lixas adesivas não costumam ser muito caras. prefira-as ao papel-lixa convencional, que pode danificar os seus calçados.
• é importante que o skate seja bem construído, para a sua própria segurança. experimente fazer alguns testes passeando pela vizinhança antes de avançar rumo a práticas intensas em parques e outros locais.

avisos